A small city with a long memory
An independent guide to Dublin — 22 landmarks, museums, parks, venues and neighborhoods, walked and written up first-hand.
The ones you came for
Trinity College and the Book of Kells
A walled university in the middle of the city, founded in 1592, with a ninth-century illuminated gospel book and a library that looks the way libraries are supposed to look.
Guinness Storehouse
Ireland's most visited paid attraction, in a seven-storey atrium shaped like a pint glass, ending in a glass bar with a view over the whole city.
Kilmainham Gaol
The prison where the leaders of the 1916 Rising were executed, and where a great deal of modern Ireland was decided. Guided tour only, and it books out weeks ahead.
Dublin Castle
Seven hundred years of English rule administered from one courtyard, and almost none of it looks like a castle. The Viking foundations underneath are the best part.
St Patrick's Cathedral
The largest church in Ireland, built where Patrick is said to have baptised converts, with Jonathan Swift buried in the floor and his epitaph on the wall.
Phoenix Park
Seven hundred hectares, twice the size of Central Park, with a herd of fallow deer that has been there since the 1660s and the President's house in the middle.
Dublin by category
Day-by-day itineraries
Neighborhoods
The essentials
How to get in from all three airports, how the subway and the ferries actually fit together, and the history that explains what you're standing in front of.
From the guide
1916, and Why Dublin Looks the Way It Does
Six days of fighting, a shelled city centre, sixteen executions and a rebellion that most Dubliners initially resented. The buildings still carry the marks.
Dublin Airport to the City
Ten kilometres, no rail link, and four ways in. The bus is the right answer for almost everybody, and which bus depends on where you are staying.
Eating in Dublin
Irish food spent a century with a bad reputation and about twenty years fixing it. Here is where the good eating actually is, and what it costs.